One of the things I found most fascinating about Venice was how the day-to-day tasks of those living in the centre of town were changed by the replacement of roads with canals.
Seeing DHL courier boats, police boats, delivery boats the incredibly stylish water taxis (think Angelina Jolie and Johnny Depp in that awful movie they made in Venice), the Gondola owners sitting back in the shade, eyeing all the young men working for them to ensure they were doing their jobs…
I found the changes to life, as those of us on dry land know it, a constant source of marvel and entertainment, collecting quite a few photos along my way.
I’m by no means qualified to say it’s the best restaurant in Venice (you’d have to be there a pretty long time to make that call), but I’d definitely put money on this one coming close.
I ate a lot of really shit food in Venice. I’d been told to avoid eating any where near anything touristy, and that advice certainly did hold. I had also learned that it is, in fact, possible for italians to screw up pizza. After so many dismal meals I tried my utmost to find the most quaint, authentic looking little spot, well off the beaten track. Cantina do Spade was it, catching my eye mostly because of the plate of seafood risotto and wine for €9 advertised outside.
It was a truly delicious meal, a great price, fantastic wine and everything else coming out of the kitchen looked fabulous. The sole downside of the experience was the old man knocking back grappa at the counter hassling me for being there alone, as though I hadn’t noticed I was in a city almost entirely crammed with couples! Or perhaps it was the drinking alone in the middle of the day part… Hypocrite.
Venice was full of stumbled-upon moments, and the Chisea de San Vidal was certainly one of them. The former church is now a concert venue, home to the Interpreti Veneziani chamber music group. As I wondered in off the street I was able to overhear a rehearsal whilst taking in the beautiful art, and appreciating the amazing architecture of such an ancient building, erected in 1084.
Unlike many big european cities, Venice not only met expectations but completely blew them out of the water. No pun intended.
Despite being a somewhat awkward place to be a solo traveller – being surrounded by couples and families in a town with zero nightlife makes for a trip with very little social interaction – nothing was more glorious than walking the confusing alleyways, stumbling across beautiful buildings, hidden restaurants, dead ends and quiet waterways. Whilst there were a few nice tourist spots, my favourite activity was walking around with no set destination and discovering all the little squares, churches, and the most luxurious form of taxi I’ve ever seen. And, of course, taking a billion photos. Hopefully some of them capture the magic of wandering the streets of Venice.
There’s really no other way to get to central Venice without taking a water taxi. So on arrival at some horrendously late hour (hoorah for budget flights) I had the totally surreal pleasure of my first impression including all the twinkling lights as I cruised through the canals.
There was something particularly magical about this arrival method – allowing me to forget I was on the Venice equivalent of a public bus, but instead feeling like I was on one of the gondolas. If there was one thing I would change about my entrance, it would be having venetian waltzes queued up on my ipod ready to go! But of course if I’d known the entrance would be like this it wouldn’t have been half as magical.
Good thing I was in such good spirits after my water taxi ride that the nightmare that is navigating venetian street maps to find your accommodation (especially laden with all my bags) didn’t seem so bad.